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心戦士 (KokoroSenshi)
Favorite Games Super Smash Bros. (all)
Ocarina of Time
Age Classified
Likes Reflecting attacks with the Mirror Shield and sword beams
Favourite item Din's Fire

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List of my subpages[hide ▲][show ▼]



  • Html entity codes: http://www.freeformatter.com/html-entities.html
  • Note: The player for ogg files seems to behave badly when the page is not 'natural'?, i.e. in preview mode or in previous revisions
  • Nice interactivity for wikitext/html help pages?: http://www.w3schools.com/cssref/trysel.asp
  • (note: 925 bytes can be saved by reexporting without saving color values..., resolution..., background color... on File:FSA - Links.png)
  • Remember to change file type after removed bg; if planned to remove bg, one can set it in advance, as it says on the help page (though doing a marathon it breaks the rhythm... have to remember to do it at the end)
  • Images without summaries - they almost always need one?
  • Obvious to myself by now, but I have to always ctrl+f5 after uploading new versions of images to make it show up (since otherwise it mistakenly shows the previous image place instead, which can be misleading to some - is there a note on the upload page? or maybe js to force refresh after any uploads?)
  • Capitalize for templates? e.g. cite->Cite (ref)
  • Use spaces, not underscores in image and page links
  • http://www.maschek.hu/imagemap (ref)
  • Capitalization for things (ref)
  • Important! Europe (E) and US/NA (U) versions of a game (e.g. notably snes ALttP) can differ in font or window positioning, etc slightly!
    • NA is preferred over Europe? (ref)






Zelda Wiki:Quality Standards#Article Formatting

Help:Article Reorganization





  • GIMP PNG export: untick :
    • "Save Background color" (may be needed:If your image has many transparency levels, the Internet browsers that recognize only two levels, will use the background color of your Toolbox instead. Internet Explorer up to version 6 did not use this information.",
    • "Save color values from transparent pixels" (Always untick?Ticking may enable un-erasing?:With this option is checked, the color values are saved even if the pixels are completely transparent.),
    • "Save Resolution" (No difference made? Can untick?)
    • then PNGGauntlet


  • Note that PNGGauntlet converts to indexed mode, so when editing or opening with this image your set of colors is restricted to the stored palette
    • i.e. Look for "RGB color" vs "Indexed color" in the GIMP window title bar (colors not in palette will be converted to a palette color (e.g. you try to paint in black to have it paint in dark grey instead)


Stages in Link's crossbow training

i.e. Stages in Link's Crossbow Training

Refer to Stages in Four Swords Adventures and Gamefaqs
Need screenshots?

Citations for Lily Pad?


Image of Skyward Sword items for Item Template?

Zelda Wiki:Image Requests#Item subscreen images

- try dump textures in dolphin?

- capture the item select screen for all versions of each item

- capture the gear,etc. screens for good measure?

tingle.../nintendo online magazine

Image Editing methods

File:HW Magic Jar.png transparency fix


Insert image as layer (do not edit) ( top )
Insert image as layer (picked the most prominent background color, dark green kinda, for Color to Alpha)
Create exact same dark green layer (to crop/trim)
Create white layer
Create ZeldaWiki blue layer
Create black layer (bottom)


Do it as usual,
For splotches of background the color-to-alpha left behind in the colour-to-alpha'd layer, use the eraser tool to 100% remove them, then smudge or clone to fill the gaps
Using the white layer, since the background was a dark colour (instead of white as previously) Use this to compare with the original when trimming the dark green layer to shape
Can use anti-erase
Use varying levels of opacity for the eraser
Use instinct and judgement

File:NinMonop.png transparency fix


Insert image as layer (do not edit) ( top )
Insert image as layer (Color to Alpha) (2nd top )
Create white layer (to crop/trim) (3rd bottom)
Create ZeldaWiki blue layer (2nd bottom)
Create black layer ( bottom)


For the 2nd top layer, Colors\Color to Alpha... to change white to alpha.
Erase using Free Select Tool, with feathering at 3, and deleting a few times
When arrive at the white houses (really annoying), then use feathering 2, then delete only once (or twice)
Can use anti-erase with the rectangle shape. A tiny bit of the blur tool when doing this sometimes

File:OoT3D Kaepora Gaebora Model.gif transparency fix


Removed background and transparency only to a moderate degree (since there are a lot of frames) and cropped to reduce size.


Since I found this daunting, here's my method:
Using GIMP, for each frame individually:
Create new layer, and make it the same colour as the Zelda Wiki background (so one can see how the edges will look)
For each layer, have this coloured layer underneath it
Use "Fuzzy Select Tool" on background, set "Feather edges" to radius of 4.9, then press delete 4 times, and also use "Layer\Autocrop Layer" in the main window.
Alternatively, one can spam delete multiple times until it seems right.
Next, use "Image\Fit Canvas to Layers" in main window, to shrink the total size.

File:Triforce New 3DS Plate.png transparency fix


Insert image as layer (do not edit) (top)
Insert image as layer (2nd top)
Create White (3rd bottom) and black layer (bottom)
Create ZeldaWiki blue background layer (2nd bottom)


For the 2nd top layer, Colors\Color to Alpha... to change white to alpha.
This will make the image body transparent also, but with the white below it all it looks like original.
Now keeping the 2nd, 3rd and 4th layers visible only, erase the background from the white layer, which will look as if we are erasing the background as normal. HOWEVER, remember that if you erase the body of the image, the transparent body will show on top of the blue background instead of disappearing
After most done, swap to black background to evaluate extent of white-ness that still remains, then erase untill it looks adequate on black background, and then it should also look ok on the blue background

Erasing tools:

You can anti-erase with the eraser!
Hardness 75 opacity 60 size 6 eraser
Rectangle select tool with Feather edges 2 ("delete"'d multiple times until satisfied)

File:SSB4 Ganondorf.png transparency fix

Meticulous, or manual.

I used the Free-select or lasso tool to do each section at a time, using the delete key, and the Hardness 75 or 100 erasers, and compared with the original and judged by eye whether it looks right or not. The fuzzy select tool was used occasionally. I used feathering of 2 or 3, and often altered the feather of the selection. When using the eraser, often I 'grow' the selection to better fix the edges (as opposed to not using a selection, since this ensures the eraser does not affect the main body).

For the tattered cape, I used the eraser tool and did it by hand, for example using {opacity 27.4, hardness 75, size 3}. Also Used a black instead of ZW blue sometimes to judge whether I have erased enough (since the white-ness is more prominent on black sometimes; well, depending on contrast with foreground to background...). Also used {opacity 40, hardness 100, size 2}. Also tried Select by Color Tool to do bulk rough erasing. Also used {Opacity 38.1, size 4, Hardness 75}. Also used mousekeys to reduce the strain of mouse-clicking.

File:TFH Link Showstopper Model.png transparency fix

Comment quoted-ish:

Removed Background, compressed; Experimented with Blurring + Anti-erase + Color Erase to try to replicate original transparency. (Since technically we cannot retrieve the original transparency with only this image - having both original transparency and color unknown, rather than just one of them, the complexity in editing multiplies - we need more information)



  • original
  • output (final product)
  • white
  • ZW Blue
  • (first attempt with eraser to make it look ok on white



All shapes are 50, sometimes 75, 100 when cleaning the empty space around link (identified by setting fuzzy select tool to 0 threshhold and unticking antialiasing)

  • Eraser ~77% sizes 1 to 7 | Eraser 20% size 1 (when necessary)
  • Blur tool roughly size 5
  • Burn tool ~20%
  • Paintbrush set to color erase, picking roughly appropriate background color


First erased so it looked ok on white, then kept a copy at the bottom layer.

Then tried blurring a bunch then anti-erasing while comparing back and forth with original (the dark and/or red coloring at the edges that stand outon white background (light backgrounds) is reduced somewhat, though some coloring of Link is dulled)

Then thought to try color erase, which turned out to work quite well; Run it over the edges while comparing with original and between ZW Blue and White backgrounds.

Next time will try color erase from the beginning after making it look good on the background most similar to original, e.g. if light grey background, will try to make it look good on white, then have a look on a black background and use color erase; Though of course compare appearance on all backgrounds with original image. (backgrounds to have a look on: black/ZW Blue or ZW Blue/White, depending on the original image's color; sometimes try Red)

File:OoX Link Ember Seed Artwork.png


  • Used color erase on white, or whatever color surrounded the relevant part of the edge.
  • ^ usually 50 or 75 size
  • Used fuzzy select tool (0 threshhold, no antialiasing) on empty space to identify and locate those almost invisible specks of stuff, then erase them with eraser using invert selection.
  • Have to make sure the edges are smooth, the key is the gradual change in transparency - basically on a black background you want it to look not sharp but smooth.
  • Checked with ZW Blue, black, red backgrounds and it looks good.
  • Kept some copies as I went just in case I realise what I'm doing is bad by duplicating the main layer and putting it at the bottom.
  • When done, save as ...[trim].xcf, then this new file I crop and export
  • Use PNG Gauntlet to compress


  • The background was not pure white - had clouds, which made things slower
  • The perimeter was quite long
  • Note that the gradient/gradualness of the brush/pen shape varies with size - i.e. at 50, size 7 the 'smooth'ness is similar to 75, size 13 -ish (by 'smooth'ness or gradient I mean basically the opposite of a hard edge, etc.)